From Mundaka to Urkiola via the Urdaibai Bird centre, Aulesti and Mañaria

The quay of the secluded port of Mundaka has the memory of corsairs and the view of one of the best left waves in the world. The cobbled streets, parks and beaches, both in the bay itself and the nearby Laga and Laida beaches, invite you to stay, even if you are not a surfer. But our goal is to get away from the sea foam and towards the mountains.

So we get on the road and turn left towards Gernika. We pass through Portuondo and Busturia before reaching the roundabout that will prevent us from entering Gernika and following the signs to Lekeitio.

We pass through Kortezubi, where we find the Painted Forest of Oma and the cave of Santimamiñe with its cave paintings But we will leave the visit for another day.

A few kilometres further on, on the left, you will see

the sign for the Bird Centre. It is well worth taking the time to observe the birds of the marshes and even walk through the reeds; the centre offers all kinds of resources and guides.

Returning to the route, we continue towards Lekeitio, passing by the Ereño quarries, and at the Solarte crossroads, instead of descending towards Lekeitio, we take the Okamika direction, among meadows, hills and woods.

We reach Aulesti, the birthplace of pelotaris, with its medieval layout and austere palaces. On the way to Markina, we pass in the shadow of the hermitage of Santa Eufemia, a landmark of the area from its rocky hilltop.

Passing through the town of Markina-Xemein, which we will visit on another occasion, we cross the Trabakua Pass in the direction of Durango, whose city centre we will not enter either, to take the main road to Vitoria-Gasteiz.

At Izurza the road narrows and soon we see the sign for Mañaria. This is a rural village nestled between limestone quarries and the Mugarra and Untzillaitz mountains, which dominate the landscape.

Now is the time to have a snack while listening to the chorus of bleats and cowbells.

It is time to return to the road and climb carefully up the winding road that leads to Urkiola.

The landscape will surprise you at every turn. The climb is short and there is a car park, an interpretation centre, the sanctuary and paths through the beech forest that hide snowfields, viewpoints and views of the Anboto.

You can feel an ancient and mysterious wind. Don’t hasten.