bilbON Bizkaia Nº12 (winter 2024/25)

Winter reveals the most authentic Bizkaia

In the land of the Titanium Museum and quantum computers, the streets once again smell of wood burning on the embers. Choirs sing to Santa Agueda. Rosquillas and the protective cords of San Blas are sold in the popular markets. The red bean stews slowly bubble on the stoves. Morcillas, exquisite vegetable blood sausages, shine. You will not have them tastier than you would here.

Winter is when the coast is most alive. So much so that some surfers are determined to ride the giant waves. The lighthouses stand firm against the wind. And the breakwaters of the harbours are embraced by the foam of the sea. In the tavern they light the fire and roast a fish that is pure heaven.

The tap of the new cider is opened to the sound of the triki, which fills the tables where txuletas, cod omelettes and cheese with walnuts are served. Have you ever seen walnuts cracked with bare hands?

Then visit the latest contemporary art exhibition. Or listen to opera. Or vibrate at the theatre. Or explore this or that cutting-edge technology fair. Or catch an exciting game of basketball. Or browse through shop windows.

It has snowed in Urkiola. And in Gorbeia. As it did a hundred years ago. As it did a thousand years ago.

CONTENTS OF NO. 12

• Restaurante Antomar. Jamón ibérico as a hallmark
• Bar Jaime. The cocktail temple
• Kasko is eternal. It thrives with its commitment to a zero-kilometre menu
• DO Bilbao. A perfect Bilbao-style bistro
• Bilbao, city of good coffee
• San Mames. This is not a stadium. This is “LA CATEDRAL”
• Artxanda Funicular
• Do you know basque?